Inspecting and repairing control cables

Do not use oil, as it would cause the teflon to swell, and you would end up with a cable that is stiff to operate. Oil (ideally not too low-viscosity) must only be used to lubricate conventional control cables without a teflon core – but the special control cable spray is good for these as well. A cable oiler applies it perfectly to the interior of the cable. 

The cable is sufficiently lubricated when the lubricant emerges from the bottom end. If you're using oil, you can hang the cable up overnight to allow the oil to run through effectively and also to catch/remove any excess. 

You should inspect your control cables regularly, and if you discover any broken individual wires, you should replace the cable core or the entire cable as soon as possible because if a control cable breaks when you're on the road, you can be in serious trouble. 

For this reason, prudent bikers always keep an emergency set of control cables and screw nipples with them on their bike. Check that the nipples in your "repair kit" are actually suitable for the controls on your bike model and, if not, add the right ones. 

Always carry a screwdriver that fits the nipple screws well, and a pair of pliers for gripping so that you can tighten the nipples securely without damaging them. 

You will also need wire cutters to cut the wire to length. Special control cable cutters work best, as they don't squash the wire, but a good pair of long-handled wire cutters will provide enough force – whereas standard short nippers or side cutters are not very effective. 

Screw nipples should only be used on the clutch cable as an emergency repair to get you to the nearest workshop. Never fit brake cables with a screw nipple. If your brake cable fails, call a breakdown service and have the bike towed to the workshop. Choke and throttle cables only transmit low forces, so they can be permanently fitted with screw nipples if they are well secured. But even with these cables, soldered nipples are the more professional option.

In some situations you may need to assemble a control cable yourself. For example if you do not have a prefabricated one to hand, or the right one is no longer available to buy. Or if you need a different length of cable because you're changing your handlebars. This is a relatively easy and inexpensive job. You can buy control cable inner core and outer casing by the metre, while nipples and adjusters are available separately. 

When assembling the cable, observe the following:

• The core must always have a certain amount of play inside the cable casing to allow it to move in small radii with low friction. For thin throttle and choke cables, a play of 1 mm is sufficient; thicker clutch cables require 1–1.5 mm of play.
• First check carefully on your original cable which nipple sizes you need. Sometimes Japanese motorcycle manufacturers use nipples that aren't commercially available. Clever DIY mechanics will not let that bother them, however: they make nipples from thin brass rods – which you can get from your local DIY store.
• Remember to order end ferrules as well. You can often use the adjusters from the old original cable.

To make the new control cable, you will also need a soldering iron with at least 80 W capacity or, better still, a blowtorch, some solder, brake cleaner and definitely liquid flux (also available at DIY stores) to clean the core beforehand. Start by generously measuring the cable outer and inner, based on your original cable or the installation position on your motorbike (making adjustments for length if you're using new handlebars).